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Old Fashion KL Chinatown - a brief history

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 20:47:32 +1000

This introduction is taken from an article written by June Chua - a Malaysian born Chinese currently living in Canada. I chanced upon her writings and following her accomplishments I have come to admire her work, most of which is nothing short of being remarkable. Although I would not know whether she would still consider herself a Malaysian, I nevertheless feel a pinch of pride in knowing that she is a fellow countryman (person) amidst the social and political humiliation Malaysians have been subjected to in recent years.

A few years ago, when I was in Berlin, I noted the lack of specific neighbourhoods i.e. no Chinatown! save for the area that is predominantly Turkish. My German friend replied: "Here people are spread out not like in North America where you have ghettos." Well, she did have a point, I suppose.

Thing is, I find Chinatowns comforting. Everywhere I have travelled, I have managed to find a kind of Chinatown – London, Montreal, Paris, Naples, Sao Paulo etc…

Most of these "ghettos" had their start in the early 1800s, when the Chinese government opened up borders and allowed the movement of migrants all over the world (of course, there has been Chinese trade and migration prior to that). Specifically, the Cantonese, the Hokkien, the Teochew and Hakka peoples were the most active – settling in places such as North and South America, Australia and even Cuba.

Most of these communities were bachelor societies as many states forbid these migrant workers to import their wives or children. Of course, this has changed. Eventually, Chinese migrants headed to Africa, India (Calcutta and Bombay), Korea, the Caribbean, England and then, Europe. Some of the earliest Chinatowns are located in Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh, Manila and Nagasaki in Japan.Read more: http://chinese-food.suite101.com/article.cfm/chinatowns_around_the_world#ixzz0NOkmhZLv

This takes us to Kuala Lumpur Chinatown with its small beginnings in the early years of the 19th Century. Below is a condensed version of the history of KL's Chinatown from an article taken from The Star newspaper, 2007 August 9

Why early Chinese settlers chose the site

The original Chinese town in Kuala Lumpur was centred on Market Square.

However, as the population grew, High Street, now known as Jalan Tun HS Lee, became increasingly popular as it was higher than the rest of the town and therefore less prone to floods. The population at the time were mostly Cantonese and Hakkas who came to the city because of the tin trade. They worked as coolies in the mines and were governed by a Chinese Kapitan or headman.

A civil war in 1870 caused the Chinese community to split into the Cantonese Ghee Hin and the Hakka Hai San secret societies.

Even though the British were called in to help end the conflict, the fighting between the two clans caused many buildings in the settlement to be burnt down and severely damaged.

The mines were abandoned during the Selangor Civil War. After the war, the miners could not return to work because the mines were flooded.

Yap Ah Loy, a famous Kapitan of that time, convinced the miners and coolies to remain in KL. Yap opened a tapioca mill in Petaling Street where the tubers from his farms were brought here to be ground into flour.

Some people still call Petaling Street ‘Chee Cheong Kai’ which means starch factory street in Cantonese.

In 2003, the road underwent a major RM11.3mil facelift with two large Chinese arches placed at both ends of the street to welcome visitors. It still pulls in many tourists, who go there to shop and will be regarded as a heritage site.

Note: Chinatown is a short 2 min bus ride from Sarang Vacation Homes down to Kotaraya and a stroll across the road. Those who would like to walk it'll be a 15 min journey taking you past Puduraya bus terminal.

KL Chinatown Pictorial

Fri, 18 Mar 2011 20:19:00 +1000

KL Chinatown in the morning and the Chinatown at night is like ebony and ivory, well like day and night itself. Michael & I find the mornings much more fascinating than the bright lights, beer gardens and cheap watches that fill up the glitzy nights all dolled up for the tourists.

Many who turn up at Petaling Street at night to do their obligatory tour and bargain hunting would miss the wet market which is one of the oldest markets in Malaysia still in existence. Miss the morning flea market in one the side streets where 'stolen' goods are displayed quite openly as second-hand goods. Miss the pushcart vendor selling duck's feet wrapped in intestine. Miss the Petaling Street without the make-up exposing the tired looking facade of old heritage buildings poorly maintained, yet so full of old world character.

Turn up in the mornings and you will experience what the locals have been enjoying. You will chance upon many elderly Chinese men and women who have lived all their lives on Petaling Street. Like the family who sells 'Yong Tau Foo' in one of the side streets or the barber under the make shift canvas canopy - a dying breed trimming the thinning hair of his elderly customers who really don't need a cut but would enjoy the casual banter that goes along with the session.

This is the KL Chinatown which Christina takes pride in showing our guests.

Note: Chinatown is a 15 min walk from Sarang Vacation Homes. You can also take a monorail ride from Hang Tuah Station to Maharajaleela Station and walk 5 mins to the chinese Assembly Hall end of Petaling Street. Or take 2 min bus ride from the main road to Kotaraya and walk across the road to Chinatown. A short taxi ride would also bring you there for a few Ringgit.

KLCC Park and Playground

Sun, 13 Mar 2011 21:28:19 +1000

A little known recreational facility

Most people would associate KLCC with the Petronas Twin Towers and the Suria Shopping Centre. When they converted the old race course into a modern complex for shopping, conventions, hotels and office buildings the architects have retained a green belt which is now a playground and park for people to go and relax or exercise.

This is for everyone to enjoy and there's no entrance charge.
Wading Pool Opening Hours: Tuesday - Sunday 10 am to 6 pm
Park & Playground Opening Hours: 7 am to 9.30 pm

If you are coming from the shopping centre the park and playground is located behind the water fountain. It has a well planned jogging track that goes around the park. People start to gather there early in the morning to jog or brisk walk. The park is usually crowded during holidays and weekends.

Some 'Tai Chi' groups can be seen going through their routine of exercising inner strength using 'slow motion' movements handed down by ancient Chinese masters.

The best time to visit the park and playground is either early in the morning or after 5 pm when the sun is less strong. Of course, I am speaking as an Asian who is not particularly fond of the sun. The children would love it after a 'boring' day of shopping. You can laze around on the grassy slopes watching the children play and catch the sunset.

The playground is a thoughtfully laid out maze of swings, climbers, rope ladders, tunnels and all the kid's stuff which will keep the children enthralled for hours chasing one another or hiding from one another.

There's also a shallow wading pool children to play in. The water's no more than 18 inches at the deepest and it's a great way to cool off on a hot day. Come prepared with bathers and a towel for the kids to dry off. No matter how you make them promise not to get wet, children being who they are, will more often than not get themselves wet and probably in the process get you wet as well. So be warned!

Getting there

KLCC Park and Playground is about a 10 minute drive from Sarang Galloway depending on traffic conditions. You can either park underground inside the shopping centre or next to the park. Alternatively you can take the monorail from the Hang Tuah Monorail Station (5 min walk from Sarang Galloway) and get off at the Jalan Ampang Station just in front of Concorde Hotel (Hard Rock Cafe) and walk 10 minutes along Jalan Ampang (one of the longest roads in Kuala Lumpur / Selangor) to KLCC. You will find the walk interesting as you would pass the Renaissance Hotel, New World Hotel, Malaysian Tourism Information Centre (MATIC), Lai Meng Chinese School, ZOUK discotheque complex and the Australian High Commission on Jln Yap Kwan Seng.

DONT'S

Avoid taking a taxi from the vicinity of KLCC. It's not worth the hassle as most of the taxis do not want to use their meters and even if they do most of the meters are not properly calibrated. Don't haggle with the drivers as they are extremely difficult to handle. Flag down a taxi only if you know the estimated fare to wherever you are going to. If unsure you can always ask the locals for their estimate of what the fare should be. Here's a guide to the fares you would expect to pay:- KLCC to Bukit Bintang - RM 4 -5 KLCC to Central Market - RM 6 -8 The prices quoted are estimates only and the fare should depend on where you get off and traffic conditions.

Massage, Foot Reflexology and Fish Spa

Sun, 13 Mar 2011 21:00:48 +1000

Take a stroll along Jalan Bukit Bintang and you find a host of massage and foot reflexology centres. It is quite the thing to do after a hard day of walking and sightseeing. You will be accosted along the Bukit Bintang stretch by dozens of ladies marketing their massage services but you will do well to just stroll the length of the street before deciding on the centre of your choice. Check out the prices as well!

We recommend the Fish Spa at either the Pavilion at the end of Bukit Bintang or the one at the 1st level of the Piccolo Hotel. Just remember not to visit the Fish Spa if you have any cuts or wounds on your legs.

Although Bukit Bintang is nearer to the guest houses we reckon that the massage by the blind in Brickfields is better value for your money. Ask Christina for directions to the massage centre by monorail.

There's a centre in Chinatown which has a great value package for a 2 hour massage. You might want to check it out when in town.

For those who would like to have a massage at the guest house we have a Malay lady masseuse (for ladies only) who does house calls.

KL Night Bazaar

Sun, 13 Mar 2011 20:59:38 +1000

One of the lesser known attractions for the visitor who likes something different from the usual tourist haunts. In and around KL there are mobile / traveling markets where vendors selling a variety of products / food group together to travel to different locations evry night. We call them the 'Night Markets'.

You will get hundreds of stalls set up every day as the sun sets. These are the hangouts of the local residents. Away from the usual shopping malls these stalls are popular for their bargains. You will get clothing, shoes, costume jewellery, belts, kitchen wares, household essentials, toys, mattresses, beddings, watches, DVDs, etc. The range of food is also staggering. You will get 'Smelly Tou Fu', chicken baked in herbs, smoothies, bubble tea, cakes, pastries, fresh fruits, etc.

If you have been to KL before and have not ventured out of the touristy places, the night bazaar is definite must see and experience. You will certainly get a taste of local culture and great shopping.

Mah Meri Woodart

Sun, 13 Mar 2011 20:57:02 +1000

Perhaps one of the lesser known places to visit while you are in Kuala Lumpur is the open air work place of Mah Meri (pronounced as Mak Meri) native Gali Adam tucked away in Kampung Orang Asli Sungei Bumbun, Pulau Carey in Selangor.

This huge island lies to the west of Kuala Lumpur on the Straits of Malacca is named after Valentine Carey, a former British civil service officer in Malaya.

Other attractions in the same area include the Hatters Castle, Eagle Breeding Centre and Bird Park.

This heritage island about 45 mins away from Klang town and about 90 mins from Kuala Lumpur comes alive for the few hundred Mah Meri natives during its annual celebrations called Hari Moyang.

The Mah Meri on this island comprises five kampungs (small villages) and they belong to the Senoi sub-group. Most of the orang asli are fishermen although increasing many of them are employed on the plantations and farms found on the island. However they retain their unique culture and way of life, often exhibiting their traditional dances and music. The Mah Meri are particularly famous for their haunting mask sculptures painstakingly carved out of a kind of swamp hardwood known as Nyireh Batu. Among them perhaps Gali Adam is the most famous of them all.

Adam has learnt the art of wood carving from one of the old masters living on the island and gave up his job at a nearby factory to concentrate on turning out hauntingly beautiful wooden masks inspired by visions from his dreams.

Batik Painting

Fri, 18 Feb 2011 06:30:23 +1000

Batik painting is one of the traditional crafts of Malaysia and Indonesia. It is an intricate art where the painter uses wax to created patterns on materials such as cotton of silk. There are quite a few templates to choose from for the beginner and you have the satisfaction of taking home the fruit of your labour.

Recommended for those who would like some quiet time in a bustling city and away from the stress of shopping.

Duration: 3 hours hands-on course with the master
All materials provided
Take home your masterpiece
Price: RM60 per person including transfers
About 10 min from the guest houses.

When travelling

Wed, 07 Jul 2010 21:11:58 +1000

I meet a lot of people during my travels. Sometimes I even encounter myself...

~ Michael Fong ~
Sarang Galloway

Low Yat Plaza

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 21:06:31 +1000

The best center for IT stuff n' such

Less than 10 minutes walk from Sarang Galloway you will find a haven for most, if not all your electronic needs. You will find all housed under one roof, hundreds of vendors selling the A - Z in electronics. All the big brands are there.

If you are not buying new you can get your own gadget repaired on the spot or at the most overnight.

Be prepared to spend at least 2 hours there once you step into the building if you have nothing specific to buy and you just want to browse. I have found that the best time to go would be at about 11 am on weekdays. The crowd is just about to come in and you don't have to jostle with literally thousands of other visitors. The vendors are probably more helpful since their stress level is still below critical.

And if you get hungry or you want a break from PC shopping there's a food court at the Lower Ground Floor offering both local and western dishes. Prices are reasonable.

Bargain! Bargain! Bargain! Bargain! Bargain!

When in Malaysia do what the locals do. BARGAIN! While not all the shops offer bargains most of the smaller ones would offer you a lower price when you counter with a lower price. The trick to getting a good deal is when offering your price do so with a reasonable offer. Ridiculously low counter offers shows insincerity and the vendors usually won't entertain you. The chances are you would get a good bargain if you show that you are a serious buyer and a reasonable price can be arrived at.

Even with the locals - practice makes perfect.

Low Yat Plaza's open 7 days a week including public holidays except for a couple of days for Chinese New Year.

Note: If you need someone who can offer you good advice and service for you PC needs please drop me a line so that I can give you the contact directly.

Happy Shopping!!

Medical Care in KL

Sun, 24 May 2009 21:04:14 +1000

If you are traveling to Kuala Lumpur for medical treatment, surgery, dental work you would, like many others before you, find that our medical fees are relatively inexpensive. What you save on your medical fees can pay for your trip to Malaysia in some instances.

Drop us a line if you want us to check out any of the professional fees charged in Kuala Lumpur. We would be glad to help. We have also learnt from our guests that many of the prescription drugs are cheaper to buy in Malaysia.

We do not sell any of the services and drugs and do not make any commision from this. We are just happy to be of assistance to our visitors and friends.

What Not To Do

Mon, 27 Apr 2009 21:00:11 +1000

Do not feed the bogus monks!!

Travelers are prone to be sensitive to the religious practices of the country they visit. I am aware of that whenever we travel to another country, especially to Thailand where Buddhism is very much a way of life. I have often contributed to monks who solicit for food mainly in the form of rice in their morning rounds. As monks don't work for a living they usually depend on the goodwill of business people in their district for support and in return they bless their contributors with good health and fortune.

Buddhist monks make a life of denial to achieve the highest and purest form of existential living. Most choose to disassociate themselves from society which is full of greed and impurities in order to meditate their focus on being selfless. Their contribution to society therefore is measured by their mere presence - a constant reminder to the rest of us of being too caught up with trivial materialism, immoral living and selfishness.

Not so in Kuala Lumpur where Buddhism is not as institutionalized as in Thailand. Of late there is a growing (because it is so lucrative) number of bogus monks who focus their activity on approaching tourists walking around the KLCC and Bukit Bintang area. Their numbers are fast growing and they now expanded to 'sikus' (robed nuns) as well. My scanty observation puts the estimate of these predators in the region of twenty, with males slightly more than females. I am convinced that they all operate from a syndicate not unlike those who employ young street urchins to beg for money.

They look the part alright. Head clean shaven, yellow robed and extremely nimble they would appear out of nowhere to offer unsuspecting tourists worthless trinkets for a donation. Most of them would want you to write your details into a little booklet to give your act of generosity an air of authenticity.

Just like feeding monkeys around your neighbourhood. The more you feed them the more they will be encouraged and the more of their cousins they would bring. Nobody gets hurt no doubt. Most tourists would feel elated that they have done the temples a service as they would have contributed to inter-religious activity since Muslims, Christians, Hindus would be giving to Buddhist monks and nuns.

It is unfortunate that there are those would take advantage of the goodwill of others to feed their own greed.

So when you are in KL and walking around the KLCC and Bukit Bintang areas please remember not to feed the monks!! You would have done Buddhism a great injustice as you would have come away with the notion that Buddhist monks roam the streets to beg for money by selling trinkets. Bonafide Buddhist monks have better and more noble services to perform and they would be shocked and angry to know that those impersonating them can give them such negative publicity.

What to do?

1. When approached, refuse them and walk away quickly and definitely do not engage them in conversation

2. Warn others!!

Remember: Do Not Feed the Bogus Monks!!!

Capoeira Masters from Lion City

Sun, 16 Nov 2008 21:26:43 +1000

Famed martial arts group from Singapore came to Kuala Lumpur attend the annual Malaysia's Batizado (graduation ceremony) and stayed with us. Capoeira, for those, like us who is unaware of this, is an incredible form of Brazilian martial arts. We were totally impressed with their style and routine.

Aside from Capoeira this talented group is also into samba. Although they claim that samba is only their side show they are great samba performers

Vacation Homes Hosts Michael & Christina on holiday in Hanoi

Sat, 15 Nov 2008 21:22:34 +1000

Christina, Shen & women of the H'mong Tribe after a long trek up and down the rice terraces to Ta Van, Sapa Valley. The Black H'mong are the most progressive and skilful of the tribes. They will accompany visitors on their trek during the months when they are not tending to their rice fields. Most of them speak English quite well though they don't necessarily know how to read or write.

Michael & Mr Bang, owner of the Pink Floyd Restaurant & Pub in Sapa Town where we had a great meal of mountain goat steamboat, home-made honey flavoured rice wine and home-made snake wine. They met on the train from Hanoi to Lao Cai and became good friends over many cups of very strong Vietnamese coffee.

Christina, Shen & the effable Mrs Linh of Hanoi Guest House. We have become good friends since our previous visit to Hanoi in 2007 when we visited Ha Long Bay. She is a delightful host and always has a warm smile for everyone.

Michael & Mr Thinh and Hanoi Bia. Mr Thinh and his son (rowing the wooden boat at the back) own the boat which takes visitors to the Perfumed Pagoda. Mr Thinh is a good 80 years old on but still fit and healthy. He doesn't know a word of English and Michael doesn't know any Vietnamese but they got along just fine.

Trekking among the many tribal villages in Sapa Valley. Quite a task for city folks like us but we count this as definitely one of the more memorable holidays for us. The scenery is simply beautiful and you feel transported back to a place where time almost stood still.

There's more to life than just increasing its speed
~ Mohandas Gandhi ~

Even hosts go on holiday every now and then. This year end we decided on Sapa Valley, a lovely hill station about 8 hours north by train from Hanoi city. Last year we were in Ha Long Bay and we chose to go trekking in the mountains to visit the hill tribes near the Vietnamese border to south China.

We experienced the wettest weather in Hanoi in the last 23 years. It is fortunate that we caught the tail end of the rains but we still have to endure a couple of very wet days in Hanoi before going on to Sapa Valley.

The views were breathtaking which made us forget about the slippery and treacherous trekking up and down the slopes of muddy rice terraces. Much of the valley is still unspoilt although Sapa town is developing rapidly due to the large influx of tourists

I wish we had more people like you in the world

Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:16:39 +1000

Dear Michael & Christina

I just want to thank you for all your warmth and hospitality and hard work during our stay with you and taking care of our family for the last 2 days of crisis (four from our group missed their flight back and none spoke any English) driving us around, and giving us a tour of the city.

You have left them with a feeling of joy and kindness which they will never forget for the rest of their lives and with a story they will rave about forever. I wish we have more people like you in this world.

In the whole month of my vacation the few days of my stay with you guys was the highlight of my trip.

If you ever plan to visit Vancouver please let me know so I can return at least 1% of the favor. God bless you. It is an honor to get to know you all.

Please thank Anita on behalf of me and my family for her hard work and beautiful smile every morning and taking care of us like her own family.

Cheers

Sam Sodeyf
Independent Film Maker Vancouver

Sam & Family stayed with us in October 2008

For the first time visitor to Malaysia, I cannot imagine a better place to stay

We give Sarang Galloway a 5 out of 5 rating. Super convenient to everything: the Golden Triangle, amazing street cafes, shopping, the bus terminal, and the LRT. Christina & Michael are fabulous hosts. The rooms were clean and quiet, a welcome respite from the hubbub of the city just blocks away. Breakfast was a daily treat. We felt very much at home. For the first time visitor to Malaysia, we cannot imagine a better place to stay.

Jim & Jill Trott
Seattle, Washington, USA
Sarang Galloway guests in August 2008

For more reviews please go to Tripadvisor.com

Congratulations Vick and Vanessa

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 21:13:54 +1000

CONGRATULATIONS! to our lovely Sarang Galloway guests Vick and Vanessa on their wedding in Kuala Lumpur in August 2008.

Vick brought along Vanessa's parents, family and friends from UK and French Reunion Island - all 14 of them, to stay at Sarang Galloway as they wanted to be together during the event. Christina & I had the pleasant task of hosting everyone.

To be honest, before they came we had no idea where French Reunion Island is! At least now we know. And in case you don't it is a rather large island (bigger than Singapore) next to the more famous Madagascar, just off the African continent. The dashing Vick's a Malaysian and charming Vanessa's French. They both met in London, fell in love, Vick proposed in Langkawi, Vanessa said "Yes!" and later they decided to gather everyone in Kuala Lumpur for their religious wedding ceremony and wedding dinner. After an elaborate religious ceremony in PJ, the lovely couple had a fabulous wedding dinner in one of the local 5-Star hotels for their relatives and close friends, some of them journeyed from all over the world to be at this event. It is one big reunion for everybody!

Christina & I had the priviledge to be invited for both the occassion and we thoroughly enjoyed it. One of the perks in operating a vacation home is that you get to make friends with people from all over the world.

We wish Vick & Vanessa a blessed union and much happiness back in Windsor, UK.